0 “OH my God...Arthur Frommer is still alive.” I thought. “God bless him.” He is 92 and still active. “How important is he?” As a pioneer in travel writing it is impossible to exaggerate his influence.” His book “Europe on $5 a Day” placed the world within the reach of most English speaking travelers.
Here is the skinny on the beginning of his
fascinating story. A graduate of New York University and Yale Law
School, in 1953 Arthur Frommer was drafted into the US military
service and was stationed in Berlin. With time on his hands, he
spent weekends touring “on the cheap” as he had little money.
Frommer journaled his travels, where he stayed, where he ate, how he
got there and how much it cost. Eventually he shared his discoveries
with fellow soldiers in a little printed booklet.
This was the beginning of what turned into the block buster “Europe on $5 a Day” first published in 1957. That year it was said 1 in 10 Americans going to Europe had a copy of his book under their arm. Travel changed forever. It was no longer the sole domain of the wealthy. With Frommer in hand and say, $1000, you too could tour the continent.
***
Spain was a likely destination for the intrepid traveler. It was so inexpensive you could actually live on 5 dollars a Day” and exotic North Africa was a short hop across the Mediterranean.
In 1970 I landed in Madrid. Michael, my husband, got a Canada Council Grant to work on his dissertation in Spanish history and I was along for the ride. I left my teaching position in Toronto and was ready for an adventure and an adventure it was.
“Here’s a card for Cardinale House of Suede. It’s just across
the street” I’d say with a smile. Passing out promo cards in
front of the busy American Express Office was my job. Here is where
I stood for the better part of 2
years observing the great migration of travellers.
Coming and
going, everyone had a story.
Who was on the road?
-It was an exciting time. Boomers, the children of the 60’s were
adventurous, intrepid explorers that hit the road hard with Frommer
as their guide.
-The young were there ready for adventure. “I have money from
graduation and money left over from my Bar Mitzvah. I have Frommer
and I’m ready to travel, to explore, to grow”
-There were the ones who dropped out of school or were ready for a
hiatus, tired and wanting a re-set adventure. Maybe their neighbor’s
cousin still lived in Italy or France or Spain or Portugal. That
could be a destination!
-There were teachers on holiday walking in sensible shoes down the
street to the Prado.
-And there were the older more established set of travelers. “The
children are settled, let’s take a trip. Where do you want to go?”
he said with
Frommer in hand.
-There were professionals, maybe a chiropractor looking for more in
life.
-And there was the divorcee escaping the doldrums of an ill advised
marriage.
-There were language students wanting to experience total submersion.
-There were army brats just off the base, independent and confident.
“I’m ready for my life to start.”
-There were boys mustered out of military service. “I can’t go
home yet. -I’m gonna hang around here for a while and see what
happens.”
-And there were those just passing through on their way to India to
join an ashram.
***
For the traveler, at this time, communication was a constant challenge. One could be on the road for weeks or even months. There were no cell phones, No internet. No FAX. One could receive a telegram or a letter. BUT you needed an address.
The answer for many was The American Express Office. Unless you are a certain age, you have no idea how important the Amex office was to travelers. On the moved from place to place, the address of the local office was the travelers life line.
"The Office" was a communication hub, picked up your mail, meet your friends, meet new friends, exchange travel information, get a ride and relax for a moment. The office was a little bit of home and it was the great equalizer. No matter your wealth, status, age or appearance you still stood in line. There, conversations developed, information exchanged, smiles and good wishes abound. “Where ya from?” “How long have you been travelling?” “Where ya heading to?”. And so the conversations continued. Questions and answers in English was a comfort to most linguistically challenged travelers.
The Madrid American Express Office was a very busy place.
Inside the Office you’d hear...
“Here’s my passport. Do I have any mail?
“I want to change money. How is the rate?”
“I lost my American Express cheques. How do I replace them.”
“Are you sure I don’t have any mail?”
“I want to book the Madrid City bus Tour for tomorrow.”
“I lost my credit card. What do I do now?”
“I don’t feel well. Where can I see a doctor.”
“I must call home. Where can I make a transatlantic telephone
call?”
“Are you positive I don’t have any mail?”
Here I was witness to the great mass of travelers that moved in and out of the office. They had questions looking for answers and hoping for service. Their faces expressed the range of human emotion. There was relief, there was anger, there was laughter and tears and I saw it all.
xxx
Over time I became an alternative culture travel service. I collected lots of information that I delighted in sharing. I was able to answer questions and give some much needed help and support. “Where’s a laundromat? A good good cheap restaurant? A clean comfortable place to stay?”
Sometimes I’d pin little notes to my jacket with messages that
connected people.
“I’m going to Barcelona. Do
you know anyone driving there? I can leave any time.
“I have a van. Do you know
anyone looking for a ride to Morocco? I still have 2 spots open?”
“Did you see a girl. She’s
about 5 feet tall, long dark hair. She’s probably wearing a long
skirt. She’s just back from India. I’m suppose to meet her here
today. Her name is Sara. I’m John. If you see her please tell
her to wait for me.”
I remember a well dressed 20 something man came out of the office. I could see he was really upset. “Can I help you”, I asked. Almost in tears he said, “I am waiting for money in a letter from home. I haven’t eaten today and I don’t have any money and don’t know what I’m going to do.” “Do you have a place to stay?” I questioned. “Yes, and it’s paid up till the end of the week”.
“So you’re safe” I said. “You have a place to stay and here is 300 pesetas. (2.10 US)”. I told him where the open air food market was and a bodega to buy wine. “This should keep ya for a day or so.” I don’t think he ever imagined he’d be in a situation like this. With a smile I said, “Try not to worry. You’re going to be fine. I’m here weekday mornings if you need more help.” He was grateful beyond words. I did this sort of thing many time and the little loan was always returned with a grateful smile.
xxx
It was the end of a regular morning for me, standing on the corner and passing out cards and smiles. All of a sudden I heard a hooping sound. “Hooping?” I thought. Skipping down the street, Danny was waving his car keys over his head. He was saying something I couldn’t understand until he got closer. “This is my lucky day!” I must admit I’d heard him say that before.
Dressed in typical hippy attire, he had long curly dark hair that was held down with a colourful traditional Moroccan hat. I remember his happy go lucky approach to a series of frustrating false starts to his journey. He waited for money that was held up. A friend was delayed. Car trouble also plagued his departure. After settling each challenge he would sing out. “This is my lucky day!”
Danny arrived hoping this would be his last visit to the Amex office to check for mail. With a big grin he stepped into the sunshine holding the letter he’d waited for. “You know I’ve been trying to get out of Madrid for what seems like forever. Now the van is packed and gassed up and I have the letter I’ve been waiting for”.
Happy for him, I gave Danny a big hug and I wished him a safe trip. l watched as he happily skipped back up the street.
I don’t remember Danny’s next destination. But just like the great mass of fellow globetrotters, when he gets there, I’m sure he will search out the American Express Office, the undisputed travelers' life line. And then, they can hear him sing out, “Today is my lucky day”!
xxx
Arthur Frommer was quoted as saying, “It (his book) is sometimes credited with giving people the confidence to go!” I think this is a gross understatement. “Europe on $5 a Day” opened travel portals and we rushed in with his chapter and verse under our arm. Frommer gave us the confidence to travel and as long as there was an American Express office we stayed connected and rarely got lost!
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